Info > Honorary members > KURT DIEMBERGER

Kurt Diemberger is the only living mountaineer to have made two first ascents on the peaks over 8000 metres. In 1957, with Hermann Buhl and two other companions, he conquered Broad Peak without high altitude porters or oxygen bottles, introducing in this way the Alpine style in the Himalayas. 

In 1960 he conquered Dhaulagiri, probably the highest summit ever reached in a first ascent without using oxygen bottles. After an interval of 18 years, spent in adventurous journeys around the world, Diemberger began climbing the world’s highest mountains again. 

In 1978 he reached the summit of Makalu (8481 m) and in the autumn the top of Everest (8850 m), making the first film in synchronous sound from the peak. He then climbed Gasherbrum II (8035 m) and returned to climb Broad Peak - after 27 years! He has been to K2 several times, where he made four films. 

In the Hindukush chain his name is linked to the first ascent of various six thousands and seven thousands. He has been to Greenland, Africa and America several times. He is known as "the filmmaker of the eight thousands" for his numerous films made in the Himalayas. 

He can be described as an international person as he has participated in over twenty expeditions to various countries. He lives in Italy and Austria, but he spends most of the year travelling and filming in the mountains, jungles and deserts.