Info > Honorary members > SERGIO MARTINI

Born in 1949 in Lizzanella, a suburb of Rovereto (Trento), Martini is the eighth alpinist in the world and the third Italian, after Reinhold Messner and Fausto De Stefani, to have climbed all the fourteen peaks over 8000 metres a.s.l. (in the period 1976-2000).

At only 17 years of age, in 1966, he climbed the north ridge of Monte Agner (in the Agordina Valley). At 19 he led the ascent of the Micheluzzi Pillar in the Marmolada. After opening up some new routes in the Dolomites, his first experience outside Europe was on Fitz Roy in Patagonia, between 1971 and 1972.

In 1976 he encountered the first Himalayan peaks. In 1983 he climbed the North Ridge of K2 with his friend Fausto De Stefani. In 1985 he scaled Makalu via the northwest face. The following year he conquered Nanga Parbat along the Kinshofer route and Annapurna. 1987 was the year of Gasherbrum II, while in 1988, with a gap of only 12 days between the two climbs, he reached Shisha Pangma and Cho Oyu. 

In 1989 he climbed Dhaulagiri. Four years later he reached the summit of Broad Peak. With Everest, reached in 2000 from the Nepalese side, Martini concluded all the fourteen 8000 metre peaks.